Encinitas Surfboards
Since 1975
A Tale of Two Surf Shops
By Carl Stahmer

Surfing is not just a sport. It’s a business!
Yes, I know the “B” word sends shivers up the
spine of every ‘soul surfer.’ (And every surfer,
if asked, will tell you he or she is a ‘soul
surfer.’) We despise business. We spit at it.
We’d blow off a surefire, million dollar deal for
a good southwest swell. But you gotta eat, right?
This reality has plagued
surfers since the Hawaiian Kings first put balsa
to water. Over the years, it has led many a
grommet to the idea that, perhaps, he or she
could somehow combine surfing and working when he
or she grows up. A few manage to pull this off,
but there are only so many slots on the
professional tour, and the tour has only been
around for so many years. But there’s always room
for another shaper or surf shop, right?
Just about ever young surfer, at some time in his
or her career, entertains the idea of shaping
boards out of a grass shack on the beach for a
living, surrounded by young devotees of the
opposite sex. Or, maybe just opening a surf shop
where everyone will hang out all day and watch
surf videos until the next swell hits and then
hang up the “Gone Surfing” sign and lock the door
on the way out, if there’s time.
When I was coming up, everyone I knew had shaped
at least one board for her or himself, and I
remember a time when every city block in
Encinitas had a house on it with some kid shaping
boards out of the garage, intent on being next
up-and-comer. Most of these guys work for Bank of
America in Phoenix, Arizona now. And it would
take several pages for me to list all of the surf
shops in southern California that I’ve watched
start and fail over the past twenty years or so
that I’ve been paying attention to this kind of
thing.

The
truth is that the surf industry is volatile, at
best. Surfing has been around longer than most of
the action sports out there, but it’s history is
one of rapid change and growth nonetheless. In a
little over half a century it has grown from a
relatively unknown sport to a major, worldwide,
corporate industry. This growth brought with it
changes in the technology of surfing—longboards
evolved to shortboards and back again, balsa
evolved to foam and is threatening to evolve
again into epoxy, and freezing your you know what
off in the winter evolved into neoprene. It also
brought with it changes in the business
structures needed to support production and
distribution to an international market. All of
this, while at the same time keeping up with the
latest style. (You need to look good while you
surf, after all, don’t you?)
Few businesses are able to weather this kind of
rapid change. Much like surfing itself, you need
to be able to adapt, on-the-fly, to rapidly
changing situations while negotiating your way to
the execution of a deliberate, planned maneuver
if you want to succeed in this kind of dynamic
environment. Encinitas is home to two very
different businesses that have managed to do just
that. Hansen’s,
1105 S. Coast Highway 101, and
Encinitas
Surboards, 107 N. Coast Highway
101, have both managed not only to survive this
rapidly changing industry, but to establish
themselves as leaders in it. Anyone who has been
to both of these stores knows that they are as
different as night and day. But both have been
riding a wave of success with their unique style
of business for well over twenty years.
For those who don’t already know it, Don Hansen
is one of the guys who gave birth to surfing as
we know it. The list of surfing names and
companies that he spawned is a who’s who of the
surfing world. Names like Mike Doyle, Jim Jenks,
founder of Op
Sunwear, and even the guys that
run Surfride
all got
their start in the industry working for Don
Hansen. He was, hands down, one of the best
surfers, best shapers, and, as it turns out, best
businessmen of the 1960’s. If you didn’t know
Hansen and ride one of his boards, you wanted to.
Don Hansen started Hansen’s
in Hawaii in
1961. But in 1962 he moved the shop back across
the pacific to Cardiff Reef and into the building
now occupied by the Kraken (2531 S. Coast
Highway). According to Rick Doyle’s
autobiography, if you wanted to work for Don
Hansen in those days you had to earn the right by
ripping it in the beach-break south of Cardiff
reef, which, for obvious reasons, was called the
“proving ground.” But by 1967 demand for Don
Hansen’s boards was so high that he outgrew the
Cardiff Reef location. He was shaping literally
thousands of boards a year and shipping them all
over the globe, so he bought some land and moved
the shop to its present location.
Hansen
continued to do business as a strictly board shop
for six years after his move to the new location.
The core of his business in those years was
manufacturing and selling surfboards. But
according to Josh Hansen, Don Hansen’s son who
now oversees the daily operations of the store,
“between 1972 and 1973 our orders dropped from
over 6,000 boards a year to less than 3,000. My
dad had to change something in order to stay in
business.” The result of this change is
the Hansen’s
we know
today—a large-scale retail operation that sells
and distributes products all over the world,
including an advanced online store
(hansensurf.com).
Hansen still manufactures and distributes his own
line of surfboards, but the majority of his
business now is retail sales of clothing,
wetsuits, ski and snowboard equipment, and
related Action Sports apparel and accessories.
Don Hansen still runs the business, but by remote
control from his home in Montana where he spends
most of his time. According to Josh Hansen, a
competitive skier, “I knew my dad as a guy who
loved horseback riding and being on the mountain
a lot and surfed every once in a while. It wasn’t
till I moved here two and a half years ago to
work in the store that I found out that he’s ‘the
man’ to in surfing community.”
There were several factors that contributed to
the rapid decline in board sales that prompted
Hansen to shift from a manufacturing to a retail
based business—none of which had anything to do
with Don Hansen or his abilities as a shaper. In
the early 1970’s surfing changed from a Longboard
to a Shortboard dominated sport. As more and more
people were retiring their longboards in favor of
the new shorter boards, demand for Hansen’s
classic longboard designs naturally decreased.
The led to an intense period of experimentation
in board design, as a result of which more and
more people were either shaping their own boards
or buying them from small garage shops down the
street rather than from established shapers. The
industry itself had changed.
About the same time that Hansen was restructuring
his business to compete in the new surfing
economy, two kids from Encinitas were looking for
a way to make their dreams of getting paid to
surf come true. Marc Adam and John Kies both
migrated to Encinitas with their parents when
they were children. Friends from the surf, they
worked together in the early 1970’s at the
old Koast
Surf shop in Cardiff. They
left Koast
Surf at the same time, and
John, who was making a name for himself as a
longboard shaper, moved to Hawaii to try to make
a go of it there, while Marc stayed behind in
Encinitas, taking a job at the original
George’s
restaurant
on the beach in Cardiff. About a year later Mark
gave John a call to let him know that
Koast
Surf had closed its doors. A
few months later, John was back in town and, in
1975, Encinitas
Surfboards was born.
The Marc Adam, John Kies partnership proved to be
an equation for success. It didn’t take long for
John to establish his reputation as a shaper and
for Marc, who runs the retail operation, to
convert this reputation into the rapid growth and
success of the Encinitas
Surfboards name. By the late
1970’s, if you lived anywhere in California and
didn’t have one of those sleeved T-shirts with
“Encinitas Surfboards” written down the sleeve
you just plain old weren’t cool, and probably
didn’t surf very well either.

A
key reason for their success was John’s ability
to adapt his shaping skills to the shortboard
market. You could always find a few longboards on
the rack at Encinitas
Surfboards, even during the height
of the shortboard revolution when most shops were
treating longboarders as if they had the plague.
But Kies threw himself into the world of
shortboard design and production like it was
second nature. According to Marc Adam, “John is a
shaper extraordinaire,” which allowed
Encinitas
Surfboards to service both the
shortboard and longboard markets.
Like Hansen, Adam and Kies also had to find a way
to compete with the backyard shaping industry
that was growing during the 1970’s. Their
solution to this problem was a simple one. If you
can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. They started selling
the raw materials needed to manufacture a
surfboard--foam blanks, resin, fiberglass cloth,
gelcoat, and more. (Today, you can still go
into Encinitas
Surfboards and buy everything you
need to make your own board.) This way they made
money whether you bought a good board from John
Kies or a bad board from the guy in the garage
down the street. A win, win situation.
Today,
the self-shaped board craze is pretty much over.
As Marc Adam puts it, “Now days, people come into
the shop and they want a board they can surf
right now. People are surfing so many more kinds
and sizes of waves than they used to, and they
need a board that’s going to perform for them
under the right circumstances.”

The
moral of this story is that there’s more than one
way to skin a cat, and that a grommet with a good
head on his or shoulders can find a way to surf
and get paid! Too often in life we get stuck in
our own thinking, convinced that our way of
solving problem is the only one that could
possible work. This tale of two surf shops if
proof that there are usually, if not always, at
least two equally effective ways to accomplish
the same task.
Encinitas
Surfboards and Hansen’s
are two
completely different kinds of surf shop. But they
ended up that way by responding, in their own
creative ways, to the same industry pressures.
Each business came up with a different solution
to the problems that confronted both of them.
Hansen diversified. Adam and Tieg got lean, mean,
and flexible. As Marc Adam put it, “Our
philosophy is to keep our overhead down and our
business operations simple so that we can respond
to whatever changes come our way.”
Both the surfing industry and the City of
Encinitas benefit from the fact that both these
solutions worked. According to Josh Hansen, “some
guys get really competitive about who has the
best surf shop in town. But I think we all do
better when we support each other.” (You ‘some
guys’ know who you are and should take a lesson!)
When I talked to Marc Adam and the guys at
Encinitas
Surfboards, they echoed this
philosophy. I’ve seen guys at both shops
regularly send customers to the other so they
could get exactly what they were looking for.
This kind cooperation has served both of the
businesses and their customers well. We all
benefit when we encourage and support diversity,
even in business.
Both Hansen’s
and
Encinitas
Surfboards plan on selling surfing
their own way long into the future. In
fact, Hansen’s
is about to
expand both its building and its operation,
bringing “The Boardroom” back under the
Hansen’s
name and
connecting the two buildings so shoppers will be
able to browse the entire store without going
outside. And for all those Encinitas
Surfboards regulars, you’ll soon be
able to park in the parking lot that’s being
built between Encinitas
Surfboards and the new
Rhino
Art building to the south.
Aside
from these changes, neither store is currently
planning any major shifts in their operations in
the near future. But you can count on one thing.
Both stores will be ready to go with the flow and
adapt in their own way to whatever changes come
down the surfing industry pipeline in the future.